SPRING. 2025

ISSUE 016


Your Guide to the Perfect Island Day

I get asked this A LOT, so, I’ve finally put down in writing my guide to my idea of a lovely day on MDI.

First, where to stay. I recommend Kimball Terrance Inn in Northeast Harbor. It’s clean, not fancy, not fussy, pet friendly, and has been family owned since 1969. It’s also affordable and, most importantly, NOT IN BAR HARBOR (iykyk). Oh, and the ocean is a 1 minute walk from the reception desk. OH, AND it’s a three minute walk to The Salt Market.

Let’s lay out your day—

  1. You wake up around 8 am. You get ready, throw on some clothes, drink your water, and walk to The Salt Market for your coffee and a croissant (an egg biscuit sandwich if it’s Saturday or Sunday). Find some items for lunch and ask them to be packed for a hike. Maybe you pop into McGrath’s first and buy the newspaper. You sit outside on our benches, put your face in the sun, and read the newspaper, enjoying the sea breeze and watching as Northeast Harbor wakes up.

  2. Let’s say it’s almost 10 am at this point. You take a leisurely walk down Main Street, making extra sure to stop into the following: The Kimball Shop, The Mercantile, The Romantic Room (to see baby Maude’s fever dream of yacht club fashions that I was never allowed to wear because Lily Pulitzer was almost a curse word in my house), Shaw Jewelry, Lisa Hall Jewelry, The Holmes Store, and Swallowfield.

  3. 11 am. Take the long way down by the Marina back to your hotel. Watch the Mailboat taking people and mail out to Sutton, Cranberry and Isleford. Watch the lobster boats bob and weave. Listen to the gulls overhead. Smell the sea. You may want to stay there forever but, we’ve got 24 hours and you have places to be.

  4. Let’s say it’s noon now, you’re changed into your hiking clothes, you have your Salt Market picnic in the backseat, and you’re headed off for a hike. As amazing as hikes in Seal Harbor and around Northeast Harbor are, I am sending you to Southwest Harbor to hike the St. Sauveur and Acadia Mountain loop. Pack your picnic in your backpack and enjoy. **Hike St. Sauveur first and then loop to Acadian Mountain. Eat your picnic at the top of St. Sauveur with views of Somes Sound.

  5. 3 pm. You’ve hiked, enjoyed some views, eaten a picnic lunch, and now I’m sending you to some of my favorite little escapes on the island. Continue circling the island by driving into Southwest Harbor and on to the Wonderland Trail. This trail reminds me of A Time of Wonder by Robert McCloskey. It’s where we used to go on picnics as kids and eat hard boiled eggs with Krazy Salt. This place is pure nostalgia for me. Wander down the trail (it’s a really easy, flat one), smell the sea roses as you near the water, and nap on the warm rocks. It’s lovely no matter the tide, high or low.

  6. Let’s call it almost 5 pm now. Early dinner time. I recommend being an early dinner person when you’re on the island. For some reason the sun, the sea, and the hiking makes us all very good sleepers (If you have read “If Once You Have Slept on an Island” by Rachel Lyman, you get it). Head to Peter Trout’s. The food will hit the spot after the long day. I recommend the fried chicken sandwich with a glass of Grüner and a side of smashed potatoes.

  7. After dinner, it’s time for an ice cream and a little more time by the sea before you head back to Northeast Harbor. Meander through Manset to Charlotte’s Legendary Lobster for an ice cream. It may not be the most amazing ice cream you’ve ever had, but it’s the sentiment. Alternatively, you can pack some cookies or chocolate for this part of the evening. Ice cream in hand, drive to Seawall. Park and cross the street to the ocean. Look at the beautiful round rocks the sea has tumbled and smoothed with time. Watch the sun go down as you munch on your dessert.

  8. Drive back to your hotel room in Northeast Harbor, and tuck in for the evening. Lights out by 9 sounds amazing to me.

I hope you enjoy!

Other things to check out//places to go—

  • Abel’s Lobster Pound— good for seaside dinner. Go early (like 4:30pm) to get a table

  • The Docksidervery good fried clams

  • Thurston’s Lobster Pound— the best traditional lobster pound experience on the island. Go early

  • Take the Beal and Bunker mailboat out to Great Cranberry Island and Isleford— if you plan your day right, you can take the mailboat out to Isleford for an early dinner at the Isleford Dock and take the last Mailboat back. Information on scheduling is available at the Marina

  • Thuya Garden— in Northeast Harbor. My favorite garden

  • Jordan Pond— if you can stomach it, go early, like 5/5:30am. Magic. In my opinion it’s one of the most magical walks on the island, but I cannot and do not go after 7 am (crowds)

  • Cooksey Drive Overlook— go in the evening and look out at the sea. Be VERY careful. It is steep

  • Flying Mountain— a short and sweet hike with a big incline and a gorgeous swimming cove at the end. Pack your bathing suit

  • Pie stands— keep your eyes peeled for pie stands, especially on your drive to Southwest Harbor. Usually cash only

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A Guide to Midcoast

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Issue #16 (Spring 2025)